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Gem Cuts and Shapes
The Difference Between Shape and Cut?
The shape of a stone is determined by its appearance when viewed from above, while the cut is defined by the arrangement of facets, which is dictated by the number, position, and angles they form.
Shape and cut represent distinct aspects in gemstones, yet they are intrinsically linked. Consider the example of a round shape: it can encompass variations such a brilliant cut, Portuguese cut or a mixed cut.
Brilliant Cut
The brilliant cut as we know it today began to take shape in the 17th century with advancements in gem-cutting techniques and the understanding of light reflection and refraction.
One of the key figures in the development of the brilliant cut was Marcel Tolkowsky, a Belgian mathematician and diamond cutter.
In 1919, Tolkowsky published a groundbreaking thesis titled "Diamond Design," in which he detailed the optimal proportions and angles for cutting round brilliant diamonds to maximise their brilliance and fire. His work laid the foundation for modern diamond cutting and revolutionised the industry.
Step Cut
Although emerald cut gemstones can be traced back to the 1500s, step cut diamonds didn't become mainstream until the 1920s and 1930s.
A step cut gem refers to a specific style of faceting in gemstones where the facets are cut in steps, creating a series of flat, parallel planes on the gem's surface. This cut is characterised by its geometric simplicity and the arrangement of facets in rows or steps. Step cut gems typically have fewer facets and a more subdued sparkle compared to brilliant-cut gems, but they can showcase the gem's colour and clarity in a unique way.
Radiant Cut
Developed in 1977 by Henry Grossbard, the radiant cut combines elements of both round brilliant cuts and emerald cuts, resulting in a unique rectangular or square shape with trimmed corners.
Radiant cut gemstones typically have 70 facets, including both brilliant-cut facets for maximising sparkle and emerald-cut facets for creating a distinctive hall-of-mirrors effect. This combination of facets allows the radiant cut to reflect light brilliantly from every angle, resulting in exceptional fire and brilliance.
Princess Cut
Originating in the 1960s, the princess cut gained significant popularity during the 1980s.
Notably, its defining characteristic lies in its sharp, angular corners, lending the stone a sleek and modern appearance. Featuring facets arranged in a chevron pattern, the princess cut is expertly crafted to internally reflect light, resulting in a mesmerising brilliance.
Portuguese Cut
The origins of the Portuguese cut are not precisely known, but it is believed to have been developed in the early 20th century in Portugal.
It is characterised by a large number of facets, often more than traditional cuts, arranged in a complex pattern to maximise the stone's sparkle and fire.
Scissor Cut
The scissor cut is a type of gemstone cut characterised by its unique faceting pattern, which creates a distinctive sparkle and brilliance. In a scissor cut, the facets are arranged in a manner that resembles the blades of a pair of scissors, hence the name.
This cutting technique usually consists of elongated, slender facets that intersect diagonally, forming a crisscross pattern on the gemstone's surface. These intersecting facets scatter light in various directions, producing a stunning interplay of luminosity and hues.
Mixed Cut
A mixed cut incorporates a blend of different cutting styles. For instance, when a faceted gem features a crown cut in a brilliant style and a pavilion cut in a step style, or vice versa, it is categorised as a mixed cut. This type of cutting combines two distinct faceting layouts on the same gemstone.
